Mirjaveh Iran December 31st 1998

It's a new year so I hope my luck will be changing, as you might remember it all started when I ran out of gas on my first day of this tour back in August, and culminated with my experiences in Pakistan, if you forgot you can read all about it here:

http://www.lorenzen.us/peter/middle-east

First of all I want to thank you for all your supportive emails I can tell you, you make a difference. Well there was one email from a guy from Pakistan who made the following correspondence to one of you on the list, he wrote:

By the name and location of the motel where he got robbed, sounds like he was smack in the middle 'Dope'istan and asked for it. FYI, Pakistan gets thousands of European tourists every year, and the Dutch in particular, are known for going there just to get high on the readily available cheap 'local stuff'. There are plenty of Holiday Inns and Ramadas all over with the best of rooms available for under $30 / night, however, with strict restriction on any sort of drugs. What was he doing in a motel in Quetta, the equivalent of an A-1 Motel on Eddy Street in San Francisco?? I'll bet you he passed out while trying some of the local stuff that, if you're not used to it, will keep you asleep for four continuos days. I ain't kiddin' you. If he was there for the ride and scenery, he should have done his research and never stopped in Quetta. Shit like this happens to tourists in San Francisco, Oakland and San Jose on a daily basis. He should have know better, esp. if he calls himself an 'experienced traveler'. One would think he would be embarrassed to report on his stupidity. Now he can call himself an experienced traveler :) He gets no sympathy from me ! Just an opinion from someone who has been there.

I wasn't writing it to get sympathy, and I am embarrassed but never so embarrassed that I would fake the truth. I normally stay in hotels which costs between 2 and 6 $, and in all my life I have only smoked half a cigaret, I use beer as dope instead, which you can only get if you got a license in Pakistan. But it adds up very well to the view I found in Pakistan - maybe it is legal to steal there, if only the victim is naive enough. (Quetta was OK, Lahore was the problem, and I would probably stay at the mentioned motel ęn S.F., actually I stayed at a much smaller place at 23rd and Harrison when I was there, and I only carry good memories from there)

And now that we are talking about my theft-report, someone pointed out that it must have been hard for me being seduced by the hotel staff, which probably were men - I should have written sedated, so it seems the story could have been worse than it really was.

There was one day left of last year when I collected my bike at the Pakistan border and was escorted the one kilometer back to the Iranian border. I was quite happy to be back on my bike although I had to go in the wrong direction. Getting out of Pakistan was easy since there was hardly no traffic, but when I tried to get into Iran the trouble started (we all know that nothing to do is the basis for much evil and here was another proof)

They wanted a "Carnet de Passage" and when I tried to explain that I came all the way through Iran without and that I just met two French guys in a Citroen Ami 8 who was stuck at the Pakistan border too for the same reason, their englęsh turned from bad to worse. They phoned all day to try to find a solution and finally they had it, węth the help of a freight company and some heavy documents the bike ended up as some "cargo" who was given 10 days to go to the Turkish border where the freight company had another office. The whole affair costed 80 $ which might be cheap considering that three men had been working on it all day, but I spend less that 80 $ on my 12 day journey 3500 km back through Iran covering everything including hotels, food, tickets, gas, oil etc.

But after all I was happy that I could drive my "cargo" through Iran, and once I was clear off the border the Beemer and I strolled into the sunset - it is just great to follow the sun, although it was faster than I.

Stay tuned and I will reveal if I had to give up my plans to go to the United Arab Emirates or if I ended up in Turkey again.

Peter L. Petersen
Hermodsgade 12
DK 9000 Aalborg
DANMARK
Phone (+45) 98 16 76 97
-- peter@lorenzen.us
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